Mommy, my Darling Dumpling

I have memories of sitting at the kitchen table wrapping suai jiao with the women of the house. That usually meant just me and my mom, sometimes my sister (although she for some reason always seemed to be relievedof domestic duty), and sometimes my grandma or aunts.

I took great delight in learning what seemed a skill of pure womanly feat. I asked my 8-year old self, "What would qualify me to participate? Longer fingers? Greater agility? A menstrual cycle?"

I did not know, but it was a rite of passage that I did not take lightly.

I began by first taking the dumpling skins out of the wrappers and laying them on a plate, waiting for my mom to fill, wrap, and seal. Later I was allowed to scoop spoonfuls of filling onto the pi, or dumpling skin. I remained at this stage for some time as this requires cognitive, volume perception, something one develops only with good intent and regular practice. Once a reliable filling-scooper, I was ready to proceed to the art of wrapping. And this came with its own set of challenges- too wet, not sealed, holey, too ugly, not enough creases for my mom's approval.

But with years of practice I am now our household's dumpling queen! Yes, I am the household's only woman, and the household's only dumpling maker, but to no matter. I am finally a long, agile fingered, menstruating woman thatcan make her own dumplings, minus the pi which I have yet to attempt, from start to finish. All thanks to my mommy, whom I wish were here to help wrap, especially as she is twice as fast.

THIS IS pan-fried pork, napa cabbage, scallion, and ginger dumplings topped with chopped cilantro served with soy sauce, sesame oil, vinegar, minced garlic and pepper dipping sauce; julienned carrots, green beans, shiitake mushrooms, and ginger. Homemade filling, store bought wrappers.

(Making vegetarian suai jiao in 2001.)

What's in a loaf?

Because baking is a science and science is not my forte, I always follow the directions. I know nothing about baking except sometimes it turns out and sometimes it doesn't. It never turns out when it's too cold in the house, or the water for the yeast too tepid. Nothing can be "almost" or "too" in baking, it's a science goshdarnit-- precise, logical, tried, tested, and true!

I learned this about two years ago when I returned to Los Angeles after a six-month stay in Taiwan, and decided that I couldn't live the same lifestyle I lived before. I wanted to start making everything myself. I wanted to be more aware of where things came from and what impact I was making on the environment, my body, and the people around me. I hung dry my clothes. I had great plans to make shampoo, candles, and bar soap. I discovered the joy of physical activity, connected to my need to be in nature, began noticing (and disliking) the noise of cars. Somewhere in this, it also meant I would have to learn to bake my own bread.

What I learned was an appreciation for fresh-baked breads, since I also learned baking was hard for me. It felt like once you measured, mixed, kneaded, waited, and baked, there was no turning back. At least with cooking you can add extra salt if too bland, cilantro or basil if too dull, or even scramble an egg and transform any unappetizing leftover into a hearty breakfast.

Two years later in NYC with no bar soap of my own creating, all I really know is when I feel the desire to bake, change is a'comin! And as the first day of autumn quickly approaches, I present my first bread of the season.

THIS IS whole wheat banana walnut coconut and carob bread, sugar-free. Sweetened with honey, enjoyed by my honey.

Look.

Look. My week in eats, all homemade. Some by me, some not (and made by Vinh).

THIS IS: 1) Lunch for one: Bok choi, tofu, julienned carrots, green onions and fresh cilantro cooked with quinoa cooked in homemade fish stock. 2) Vinh's Monday morning breakfast: Julienned carrots, green peppers, green beans, and jalapeno peppers; and red cabbage slaw with pepitos, garlic, green onions in sesame-soy sauce dressing. 3) 4PM Snack: Baguette; sliced heirloom tomatoes topped with cut basil and garlic in olive oil and balsamic vinegar; served with culatello biellese from Bedford Cheese Shop.

BFF, Breakfast Friends Forever

Breakfast for breakfast, breakfast for lunch, or breakfast for dinner, you are my best friend and my favorite meal.

Not only because I love any excuse to eat an egg, I think breakfast is the most well-rounded of all the meals. Let me count the ways.

1. Nutritionally, it's the most important. Without the Big B, what's going to provide you with energy for the rest of your long, arduous day?

2. Practically, it's my favorite meal to cook. It's easy. It simple. It never tastes bad.

3. Socially, it's a privilege to eat this meal with friends, family, or lover. Most of us are usually in a rush in the mornings, so to sit down and share this meal means two joyful things: 1) that you aren't late; and 2) that you aren't alone. It allows friends to reconvene hungover and post-partying, potential lovers to solidify the prior night fling, and families to act healthy and wholesome. Win, Win, and Win!

4. Emotionally, it is my comfort food. Some of my fondest memories of the short year and a half my mother, sister and I lived in New Jersey include the egg and cheese omelette my mom made for us every single morning. Breakfast = safety.

5. Morally, it teaches the virtue of patience. When else in the restaurant world do people willing oblige to hour long waits with such grace and good esteem?

6. Intellectually, it is the time I both ponder and answer all of life's burning questions. Like the chicken or the egg. This one is always easy over breakfast. (or should I say, over easy...)


THIS IS toasted Old Poland Bakery baguette; Garden of Eve eggs with chopped basil; thinly sliced red onions, heirloom tomatoes, and jalapeno peppers; and sliced apple. Just a lil Saturday afternoon brunch for zo + nance.

Simple & Satisfying

It's been a while since I've enjoyed cooking for myself. Up until the past few days, my home-cooked meals had been rather disappointing. But I guess that is the cycle of all things; without having the occasional lull, it would be difficult to appreciate the fun, the tasty, the juicy, the sweet, the luxurious, the comfortable, the simple. As I did Thursday lunch.

Sometimes I walk into the kitchen with total confidence and no agenda. My mind is clear and my stomach is patient. It's times like these that the only task is to create something sustaining and satisfying, if not the usual quick and easy.

I started with some rice that I had presoaked, something I do if I am thinking ahead and making whole grains. Over the past couple of years I've started to experiment with different grain mixes. Most recently I've been making short sweet brown rice, wild rice, and quinoa cooked with seaweed. For a while I added green lentils. Then I tried nuts, as inspired by Afghan and Indian cooking - cashews, pistachios, or walnuts, sometimes even pepitos and sunflower seeds.

THIS IS tuscan kale sauteed with ginger, sea salt, and white pepper; Garden of Eve egg cooked over-easy and topped with fresh homegrown Vietnamese coriander; purple eggplant cooked slowly and lovingly with red onions, jalapeno peppers, mustard seeds, white pepper, a dash of Braggs in a veggie (store-bought) broth, topped with fresh scallions; Served over a bed of 5 grain rice.