Mommy, my Darling Dumpling

I have memories of sitting at the kitchen table wrapping suai jiao with the women of the house. That usually meant just me and my mom, sometimes my sister (although she for some reason always seemed to be relievedof domestic duty), and sometimes my grandma or aunts.

I took great delight in learning what seemed a skill of pure womanly feat. I asked my 8-year old self, "What would qualify me to participate? Longer fingers? Greater agility? A menstrual cycle?"

I did not know, but it was a rite of passage that I did not take lightly.

I began by first taking the dumpling skins out of the wrappers and laying them on a plate, waiting for my mom to fill, wrap, and seal. Later I was allowed to scoop spoonfuls of filling onto the pi, or dumpling skin. I remained at this stage for some time as this requires cognitive, volume perception, something one develops only with good intent and regular practice. Once a reliable filling-scooper, I was ready to proceed to the art of wrapping. And this came with its own set of challenges- too wet, not sealed, holey, too ugly, not enough creases for my mom's approval.

But with years of practice I am now our household's dumpling queen! Yes, I am the household's only woman, and the household's only dumpling maker, but to no matter. I am finally a long, agile fingered, menstruating woman thatcan make her own dumplings, minus the pi which I have yet to attempt, from start to finish. All thanks to my mommy, whom I wish were here to help wrap, especially as she is twice as fast.

THIS IS pan-fried pork, napa cabbage, scallion, and ginger dumplings topped with chopped cilantro served with soy sauce, sesame oil, vinegar, minced garlic and pepper dipping sauce; julienned carrots, green beans, shiitake mushrooms, and ginger. Homemade filling, store bought wrappers.

(Making vegetarian suai jiao in 2001.)